Captains Log
Star date 1 May 2010
Ayvalik
 
39.18N  26.41E

It has been some time, in fact two weeks now since I pounded the keyboard, so I apologise if the log is somewhat abbreviated.
Our onward journey from Didim was mostly uneventful, the weather fairly benign. We spent a couple of nights in Cesme marina, now undergoing a massive new build programme, talking to my old friend Can Polat the marina general manager ,they hope to have it open by the end of this month. The plans look very ambitious and I look forward to seeing the completed project.
We called in at the small Greek Island of Oinoussa, we were the only boat there, electric and water on the quay was free and we saw only about a dozen people.
The island is the birthplace of many of the Greek shipping magnates including the richest of them all Costas Lemnos. You won’t find here bars discothèques or even a supermarket just the sort of place that is top of my list to visit.
Mithilini in Lesbos was our next call, this was an essential call on our itinerary as Kath wanted to stock up our wine rack and fill the fridge and freezer with those essential commodities that will satisfy the skippers whims over the next two months or so.
That night we had a huge thunderstorm the saving grace was that it drowned out the noise of the coffee bars across the road from where we were moored.
The next morning saw us depart for Ayvalik but not before we did a quick supermarket dash for fresh bread and pork chops.
We planned to leave Mashona here while we bussed up to Istanbul for the start of the rally and our down leg journey with Taoman on S/Y Mat.
One of the things that are great about Turkey is the public transport clean, efficient, and frequent.
The start of the rally was from Kalamis marina a change from our usual departure point at Atakoy.
Dinner on the Friday evening organised by our trusty friend Umut put the hardy few that started here in a party mood.
Hasan joined us on the Saturday morning and we were sad to hear that Taoman was unwell and unable to take part in the rally as planned. (We wish you a speedy recovery Teo)
 
 
We were set to complete the first part of the rally by car meeting the sailors in the next three ports when Patrick and Marie from Marick very generously offered us a berth with them. They have an Ovni which is aluminium and renowned for its excellent sailing qualities coupled with this the promise of French cuisine we glad to accept.
The following boats started from Istanbul Marick (France) Manca (Canada) Ednbal (Australia) Sümerkan (Turkey) and of course ourselves but without Mashona (Britain and Kibris) a truly international group.
The first day out lulled us into a false sense of security the promised winds of 29knts from the North east did not materialise and we motored across the Sea of Marmara towards Mureftte. Just as we neared the harbour the expected winds freshened which made mooring interesting to say the least.
The wind continued to build during the night and dawn saw the boats med moored on the wall having a difficult time.
Now the wind was in the thirty’s and getting Manca off the wall proved a difficult task. Various theory’s were put as to how to move 20tonnes of boat across the harbour, Mesut who is our representative came up with the simplest idea, fix a line to the stern and tow  it with a 4x4 he said. The simplest idea always works and in now time they were across the more sheltered side. Now how many boats can boast they have had a tow from a Nissan Pickup!!!
With the wind set to increase we wisely decided to stay another day and visit Gelibilou and Gallipoli.
We took a bus and my skills as a tour guide were put to the test, we have been to the ANZAC landing sites before but it always is emotive moment when you read Ataturk’s speech.
 
‘Those heroes who shed their blood and lost their lives
You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country
There is no difference between the jonnies and the Mehmets to us were they lie side by side here in this country of ours.
You, the mothers who sent their sons from far away your countries, wipe away your tears, your sons are now lying in our bosom and are at peace.
After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well’
 
The futility of war is epitomised in these few square kilometres.
Remembering that 132,000 soldiers lost their lives here 86,000 were Turkish.
 
Lunch in Gelibolu and a return to the marina saw no decrease in the wind it was blowing now in the high thirty’s.
Looking at the Grib files for the next day saw a small respite in the morning, we decided that we would make a dash for Çanakale and if the wind was reasonable then we would carryon to Bozcaada or Gokceada.
Everything looked ok so we went for it, it was very tempting at the end of the Dardanelles to turn to starboard and try for Gökçeada, it was a good thing we didn’t.
Anybody who is sceptical about the Coptic calendar should not be this wind was predicted and proved in this instance very true.
The next day Thursday did it blow 40knts, great when you are tied to the quay but certainly not pleasant out at sea. We did hear from someone around the Bodrum area they were motoring on a flat sea. All we can say is ‘Go North’
Bozcaada has always been one of my favourite places one of only two Turkish islands it commands entry into the Dardanelles and until recently was military controlled. Now a holiday island it has many fine beaches crystal clear waters and the best wine in Turkey, what else do you want.
Murat (S/Y Nautiboy) who is our representative organised a tour along with a visit to two of the wineries.
Dinner at a quayside restaurant attended by the Başkan (Mayor) concluded our visit to this little jewel of the North Agean.
Weather looked much better for the next day 20-25 knts to Baba Kale and then little or no wind until near Ayvalık (please note my weather forecasting was proved exactly true despite some doubtful looks from some members of the rally)
We had an excellent sail down to the cape and then the iron sail until we reached the islands surrounding Ayvalik.
We would like to thank Marie and Patrick for their wonderful hospitality on Marick and of course their French wine and cuisine we hope one day we can repay them on Mashona.
Ayvalik is one of the Setur group of marinas will all the services, the washing machine here went into overload upon our arrival. The majority of the group today are visiting the ancient site of Pergamon while we are getting Mashona ready for the continuation of the rally.
Kim who is our crew looked after her and of course ‘the beast’ Tilly the cat. She was pleased to see us and is now curled up on a cushion glad to see Mum and Dad back again.